Custom Made Suit

Made-to-measure Zegna suit
Made-to-measure Canali suit

Everything You Need to Know About Custom-Made Suits

 

 

It is quite difficult, and sometimes impossible, to buy a suit in a store that fits well. Each of us has our own characteristics, there are no standard identical figures, so factory products can rarely meet the requirements of discerning taste.

Clothing manufacturing technologies have reached a new level – it became possible to manufacture classic clothes (suits, shirts, trousers, coats) in a factory way, but taking into account the individual measurements of the client, the technology was called Made to Measure and today the Podium store offers Made to Measure of famous brands: Zegna and Canali.

Of course, a made-to-measure suit is a much more advantageous option for any figure, in contrast to a ready-made suit from a size range.

The Podium store offers two different options for “Made to Measure Suits”: MTM and MTO. What is the difference between these order options? There are significant points that are important to know in order to make a decision in favor of one option or another.

 

 

MTM

MTM (Made to Measure (English), Su Misura (Italian) – made to measure) – handmade clothing made to the customer’s individual measurements. It appeared at the beginning of the 21st century in famous luxury men’s clothing and footwear brands as a special service for precise fitting of products.

MTO

MTO (Made to Order) – production according to standard patterns taking into account the customer’s measurements.

Taking measurements

 

MTM

To create individual patterns (patterns), the cutter takes about 30 measurements. This is the basis for creating personal patterns for a future suit or shirt, and as a result, a perfect fit. Brands often hold an MTM session or, in other words, a trunk show. When a tailor from the brand comes to take measurements and within 2-3 days takes measurements and places orders for suits, shirts, coats. Recently, the Podium store has held a trunk show twice:

MTO

When ordering, a suit of similar size is tried on the client (mock-up series), and the length, width, volume, and arrangement of parts are adjusted. In this case, the cutter adjusts the factory’s already prepared standard patterns.

 

March 13-14 trunk show from the Italian brand Zegna.

 

 

 

On October 25-26, the Podium store hosted an MTM session with an Italian tailor from the Canali brand.

 

 

 

Nuances

 

MTM

The invisible at first glance anatomical features of the customer are taken into account: shoulder asymmetry, shoulder blade protrusion, arm turn and muscle mass, leg line and shape. Only when sewing according to the MTM principle can you achieve a good fit on any, even the most complex figure.

MTO

The suit is adjusted to the maximum extent possible to the features of a non-standard figure; it is made on the basis of basic factory patterns, and the maximum possible number of changes allowed when adjusting the patterns are made.

Tailoring

 

MTM

More than 60% of operations are performed manually without using a sewing machine. Many elastic hand stitches create a kind of 3D model of the client’s figure. The process of sewing a suit is always controlled by the cutter who created the patterns, and the sewing is carried out by tailors – masters of their craft. All stages of sewing an MTM suit are always carried out at the brand’s factories in Italy.

MTO

Factory technologies are always used in sewing. MTO suits are sewn in Italy, at the brand’s factory. Adjustments are made to standard patterns, then sewing begins, organized by a special method. Each master performs only one type of operation, for example, sewing in sleeves or sewing on buttons.

What’s inside the suit?

 

MTM

The inner layer of the jacket, a kind of frame of the product – the lining is made without the use of glue. Such processing gives plasticity and lightness, the suit turns out comfortable, weightless, breathable, like a second skin. The product is created only from natural materials, has excellent qualities of thermoregulation and hygroscopicity.

MTO

When ordering, you can choose the sewing technology.

Details

 

MTM

Endless number of options. Embroidery of your initials. Models and designs of any complexity. When ordering, you can choose the fabric, silhouette, model, trim colors, buttons, lining, elbow pads, collar, embroidery and many other elements. The main thing is not to overdo it with decor.

MTO

Various options for business suits and casual wear. When ordering, you can choose the fabric, silhouette, model, trim colors, buttons, lining, elbow pads, collar, embroidery and many other elements. The choice of fabrics and trims is limited.

Deadlines

 

MTM

From 4 weeks to 1.5 months. Depends on your choice of fabric and the order unit. For example, a shirt will be ready faster than a suit. Thick winter fabric will take longer to sew than light summer fabric, this is due to technological nuances.

MTO

From 4 weeks to 2 months, depending on the factory workload.

 

 

Thus, when ordering a custom suit, shirt or trousers, you can get not only a perfect fit for your figure, but also a fashionable wardrobe item. The tailor will take all the necessary measurements directly in the store. The leading manager of the Made to Measure direction will help you choose a silhouette, fabric, accessories that correspond to the latest trends, as well as a color taking into account your type – and, as a result, you will look impeccable.